Tool box or tool bag, set up as an extrication kit. Small tools that you think might help you, but would otherwise get in the way or lost, keep them in the kit. Centre punch, duct tape, cable cutters, channel locks, webbing, windshield saws, tennis or racquet balls, EMS scissors, Sawzall blades and batteries, etc. Everyone could have some input as to what small equipment might be needed or should be kept in this kit.
Some companies have an actual extrication entry kit.Similar to a patient packaging kit in technical rescue. This kit combines basic EMS trauma/patient assessment/life suppot equipment and the contents of an extrication kit. The concept is so a member can enter the vehicle, stabilize the patient if need be, and also use some of the tools in the kit to begin the initial work of clearing debris/parts of the car away from the patient. Be it something as simple cutting seat belts, removing molding, wiring, glass, cutting a seat if need be, etc.
Webbing has many uses in extrication, be it holding tension on a brake pedal, or as a handle on a step chock.
Step chocks, often inverted work just as well if not better.
4 step chocks, often kept with the remaining cribbing on fire apparatus, are often better off being kept with or very close to the Hurst tool itself. One of those things that if the members don't see it, they might not take it. Whether companies have riding assignments or not for extrications, people also flock and gravitate to the tool - late comers and officers. But cribbing is OFTEN over looked. Having the step chocks in plain sight, possibly in the same compartment as the tool and power unit - almost makes the members take them.
Power units mounted on a hand truck or wheels. Hand trucks are common, the collapsable types/two piece units are used commonly, and some units who have members who can weld have often made an actual kit the holds the power unit and has craddles for both the cutters and the spreaders.
Keep The Glory Dogs That Think They Know What They Are Doing Away From The Tool And Let The Guys That Know Whats Going On Take Care Fo Biz. BETTER TO HURT A COUPLE OF FEELING THEN LET SOMEONE GET HURT MORE OR WORSE YET DIE BECUASE A 10 MIN EXTRICATION TAKES 30
Pulling tire valves will drop the vehicle onto the cribbing, making it more stable.
The webbing can also be used to pull the brake pedal out of the way if needed.
Making relief cuts in the "upper rail" will aid in dash lifts.
Bigger isn't always better.
when the rescuer enters the vehicle, after the collar is applied, secure the patient to the seat/headrest while you initiate patient assessment and while searching the interior of the vehicle for hazards (air bags, inflation cylinders, etc.)
Reciprocating saw work well in removing the windshield.
Pass tools off when working on opposite sides of the vehicle - less fatigue and saves time, especially if you are still using the "older" generation tools
Tool box or tool bag, set up as an extrication kit. Small tools that you think might help you, but would otherwise get in the way or lost, keep them in the kit. Centre punch, duct tape, cable cutters, channel locks, webbing, windshield saws, tennis or racquet balls, EMS scissors, Sawzall blades and batteries, etc. Everyone could have some input as to what small equipment might be needed or should be kept in this kit.
Some companies have an actual extrication entry kit.Similar to a patient packaging kit in technical rescue. This kit combines basic EMS trauma/patient assessment/life suppot equipment and the contents of an extrication kit. The concept is so a member can enter the vehicle, stabilize the patient if need be, and also use some of the tools in the kit to begin the initial work of clearing debris/parts of the car away from the patient. Be it something as simple cutting seat belts, removing molding, wiring, glass, cutting a seat if need be, etc.
Webbing has many uses in extrication, be it holding tension on a brake pedal, or as a handle on a step chock.
Step chocks, often inverted work just as well if not better.
4 step chocks, often kept with the remaining cribbing on fire apparatus, are often better off being kept with or very close to the Hurst tool itself. One of those things that if the members don't see it, they might not take it. Whether companies have riding assignments or not for extrications, people also flock and gravitate to the tool - late comers and officers. But cribbing is OFTEN over looked. Having the step chocks in plain sight, possibly in the same compartment as the tool and power unit - almost makes the members take them.
Power units mounted on a hand truck or wheels. Hand trucks are common, the collapsable types/two piece units are used commonly, and some units who have members who can weld have often made an actual kit the holds the power unit and has craddles for both the cutters and the spreaders.
Here is our setup 12, it's a 1 man operation. Before the next century it will be a simo pump. And the tool on it changes with the chiefs
Take a spray bottle and fill it with either ivory soap & water or anti Freeze & water (Yes anti freeze, it works great). Spray the solution on your sawzall blade or hacksaw blade to reduce friction, speed up the cut and keep small particles of metal & glass from flying around.
Anyone else have a similar set up to transport the generator and tool?
We have a T handle attached to the cage that surrounds the motor. On the opposite side of the T handle is a bracket that you can use to hold the spreader. The entire package can be rolled from the truck into position on 2 wheels. I will try and take a few pics at wotk to give you an idea.
We've used both the hand truck with with the moving sections and second set of wheels, to create more of a push cart system. Also, we've not only had wheels attached to the power unit, that doesn't do much good. Rather built an entire unit that supports the power unit and two tools. The hoses can be laid on top and kept in place with webbing or small straps. (fire glove glove holders work well for keeping the hoses together) We also coil our hoses in an under over method, so they deploy fast and straight as they are walked out.
The more of a base/cart you build, the heavier the system will be. A power unit alone can be removed from the rig by one person, a welded cart with two tools requires two men to move it and can be difficult to lift over a Jersey wall.
If your not lucky enough to have pre-set tools with the hoses on reels coming off the rig, and you have to take the power unit with you, wheels are definitly the way to go, an entire (but light weight) unit with wheels that holds it all is better.
Right now we got the combi tool preconnected to the power unit on one side of the rig, and the spreaders and cutters on the other side, looking for something that will work alittle better.
Keep anyone not directly involved in patient care or the actual extrication away from the car. It's hard for someone to use the spreaders while 25 people are pushing and shoving him into the car so they can get a look. Also, the incident commander doesn't have to be right on top of the car either; let the crew operating the tool and the tech providing patient care to work out their extrication plan; the incident commander can go back to commanding the incident. This is a great place for the Safety Officer to step in and keep the scene clear of unnecessary personnel.
This is more of a safety thing. The company I roll with in PA requires that all members wear a rip-away reflective vest on all calls except for structure fires. The vests are kept on the turnout coat, so throwing on your coat "automatically" puts the vest on. At first I thought it looked lame, it was a pain to set up properly and all that, but after going on a few rescue calls on the highway, I realized how much more visible a FF is wearing this vest than just his turnout gear alone, especially in the daytime. If you get toned out for a structure call, one pull on the vest will rip it off. Here's a link to it: http://www.respondersafety.com/fullstory.php?39128
Also, when landing a helo on the highway, try marking out the LZ with a large box made with a large handheld flashlight in a traffic cone. It'll let the pilot know where he has an area that is clear of personnel and FOD. Flares will just blind him, and they'll blow away.
Last edited by Navy076996 : 11-02-2007 at 01:22 PM.
for a "door pop" if the door is still intact but slightly dislodged/out of alignment to the point where you might need to break out the tool:
chalk the car or pull the valves to stabilize the car,
In the MVA kit or tool bag you should have a wonder-bar or pry bar.
place whichever end seems necessary for the job and bend it to bring the door more into alignment and have someone try to open the door
so if the your gonna try from the bottom, work the tool in, pull up on the bar to make the door more aligned and try the handle again.
but then again this is for those "little fender benders"
as a side note - you dont need to place step chalks under the car if you pull the valves cause you'll have a real problem getting them out later.
and for the person who enters the car if it'll require the tool, have them pull the emergency brake if its reachable through the center console...especially if its a stick shift. that and make sure the cars off
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