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Just wondering how many departments rely on the vertical door crush as the primary method for removing a door? (spreader in window between A Post and door; spread the door down and away from passenger compartment)
It's the method we teach at my department, and it can be very fast and effective. My only concern with it is if not done properly, or if the tool is not completely controlled, it can slip and end up in the passenger compartment with rescuers and the victim.
It makes sense to train on and know alternate methods that keep the tool away from the passenger compartment; such as the fender pinch (to expose the hinges), cut the hinges and harness with the O-cutter, then spread the latch side and either pop it away from or cut the Nader pin.
Bottom line is that you have to be proficient on more than one approach, and proficiency comes from training on different methodologies.
do you mean between the top of the window and the bottom...I guess it could be the A post but I would think of it as the roof. if you spread away from the hinge side after a fender pinch the pin/latch side spreads out easier with no need to involve a second tool to cut the pin...just a thought
we teach the vertical crush in my area. Its a good way to get the nader pins. only things you have to consider is if the door is pushed in past the rocker panel, when you verticaly crush the door, it has been seen that instead of being pushed outward it will roll inward towards the victim. then the vertical crush isnt a good option. Going for the Door hinges first with a fender pinch works , but you need to make sure you have a good cutter that will get the nader. its all about what the situation calls for and what condition the auto is in.
It's quite effective using a large spreader. If you're using short spreaders or a combination tool, the tool will want to pull itself into the compartment due to the wide angle of the tips.
In my dept. it called a window curtain and we find that alot of the time if you move the tool back towards the B post you can get the door to pop this way.
Using the large apreaders, the arms go in betweent the window opening, roof rail to door sill. If you slide the upper tip in slightly, it will fornce the lower arm to force the door more outward then down.
if you are using a smaller tool, such as a combi tool, then you can place it between the A post and the door thus creating an opening near the hinges.
Couple of cautions - Tool may slip and fall into the patient comp, operating with a heavy tool above your head is dangerous, use extreme caution with side impact bags. If the didn't go off, it may go off when force is applied.
Going after the hinges is alot easier then going ofter the nader pin, in most cases. Sometimes forcing the door above or below the nader pin will cause the door to enter the passenger comp, especially if the door took the impact.
But like the Boss said, you should be aware of more than one technique and know when to switch to subsequent plans.
If you have a good door crush, going after the hinges, starting above the top hinge, moves the door away from the victim, than going below the bottom hinge pops the door off the hinges. You have to be aware of the door movement however, because going below the bottom hinge starts to move the door back into the passenger compartment, going above the bottom hinge can move the door into the ground and start to lift the car, depends on the type of car, and damage. The door is than left "hanging" on the nadar pin. Putting the tool in almost vertical from the top and working your way down to the nadar pin, usually takes the door off quickly (this is hard to do with a large spreader, so a combi tool is usually used). You usually never have to cut the nadar pin with this method.
This can usually be done with the combi tool, which is usually the 1st tool off a rig, and done very very quickly.
When we teach extrication, we start off with a powerpoint presentation, and 1 of the first slides is. NO TWO EXTRACTIONS ARE THE SAME.
Our dept just purchased Halmatro tools for our 2 Truck Companies. They are to help supplement our Heavy Rescue Co as a back up, also since we have some main roadways (Hemp Tpke, SS Pkwy, CIP Pkwy[deadman curve], etc)in our area. There is a chance of getting a 2nd mva w/tool request. One of the training requirements that the companies need before the tools go into service is that all the members must take the vehicle extrication course at the FSA, the vertical door crush is the main method how they are teaching it.
The other thing you need to use caution with is if the vehicle has a sunroof. Its a weak point. You could try going on either side of the sun roof or use a piece of cribbing to add more support.
also if the car took a good shot the integrety of the roof might be comprimized, so the tool will just push the roof away from the door instead of the opposite. but knowing how to do different methods is always good. not every job is just a 1,2 door pop.
Verticle spread and verticle pinch are the two terms im familiar with. Fender pinch kinda new and does work but you end up taking the hinges first which leads to a difficult time getting at the pin or staple. As stated not all mva's deal the same set of cards. A perfect hand would be the pinch, the pin, then the hinges.
Verticle spread and verticle pinch are the two terms im familiar with. Fender pinch kinda new and does work but you end up taking the hinges first which leads to a difficult time getting at the pin or staple. As stated not all mva's deal the same set of cards. A perfect hand would be the pinch, the pin, then the hinges.
How does taking the hinges first lead to trouble at the pin? If you take your cutter and cut the hinges, then go after the pin with the cutters or spreaders.
Vertical Door Crush
